With this lens you don't need to do much if any post processing. I just got the Samyang version of this lens and used it with my Canon 3ti on a Skywatcher Star Adventurer. I almost bought one, but couldn't manage that focal length and DoF with moving subjects and manual focus. (purchased for $900), reviewed August 22nd, 2008 Over the years, Ive shot deep-sky targets at varying focal lengths from 50mm to over 1000mm. The Nikon D810A, however, is modified for astrophotography out of the box. It seems they are now quite comparable in quality to prime lenses. Also, we ought never question or diminish the joy of others. For my purposes, this is a spectacular lens. And in their task to get that blurry background, they most often throw their main subject out of focus and/or to focus for anything else in the photograph that would make it, and end results are just "gear porn". Jordan has a simple fix camera manufacturers could implement to improve their video autofocus. Its fast f/2.0 maximum aperture is effective in low light and enables shallow depth of field control. Thanks, Chris, hi Trevor my name is sagar i have same lens but i have one question why lot of stars are appearing in my image which is taken thru rokinon 135mm, Your email address will not be published. A higher-res Blackmagic Studio Camera just dropped. The North America Nebula captured using the 135mm lens with a clip-in Ha filter. 85 Is a different story, my 85 gets used a lot. I've done comparisons between my brand-new Samyang 85/1.4 and the old big Apollo 135/1.8 lens I had lying around, and the shots were for all practical purposes identical (exept, obviously, for the pixel count once cropped). BirdDog P240 40X NDI PTZ Camera. As soon as e.g. f2, very sharp, virtually without CAs, contrast, colour, lightwight, buildings. Holiday Savings $50 . The lens shows a very slight pincushion distortion, but it's well under 0.1% of frame height, an excellent performance by any measure. This leaves you with a buttery bokeh and an object in perfect focus. Also, the newer and much more expensive 200mm F4 SMC Pentax with the K mount is decisively inferior, showing small but annoying red chromatic aberration. I will say that at F/4 this lens is extremely sharp corner to corner when used on my 60Da. Second night out with mine right now and I am here in the comments looking for the part number or link! As you'd expect though, distortion and light falloff are both higher with a full-frame image circle, but perhaps not as much as you'd normally expect. Fast focus, Super sharp, Well built, Awesome for low light. @ Juksu - you're pathologically clueless. Whatever lens you pick in the end, you will make a great purchase. My only complaint about this lens is that the depth of the lens shade forces me to remove the shade in order to remove or replace the lens cap (my hands are fairly large). Add To Cart. However, they can be perfectly corrected with narrow band H-alpha or OIII filters. I can only guarantee that the TSAPO65Q would work very well. It's sharp, has very low aberrations, no real distortion and the bokeh is very nice. The flat lens hood is great for taking flat frames after a night of astrophotography. This is actually worse than just plain obsession with blur. One way to combat potential soft images and chasing perfect focus all night is to stop the lens down to F/2.8 or even F/4. The optical design includes one extra-low dispersion (ED) lens element to control chromatic aberration, and ultra multi-coatings (UMC) to both improve light transmission and reduce flare. It's an ideal portrait lens. Chromatic aberration is almost eliminated in narrowband, so lenses with that problem may be fine performers. Asahi Optical's Pentax KX was one of the first cameras with this lens mount, acting as a midrange model in the lineup. For the rest there is Sigma 135 /1.8 Art also fantastic value lens. These were just a tad less sharp at the corners than their Canon competition, but certainly extremely sharp all over the field if closed down one stop or even half a stop. Has a good weight to it. I would love to see his test images. To see even more example photos using the Rokinon 135mm lens (or Samyang branded version), go ahead a perform a search on Astrobin or Flickr, with the appropriate filter. IS would also help outside with wind. Definetely the most sharpest lens which I have ever seen. As such, it applies most directly here to areas of an image that are out of focus. Hey! In the middle of the OM System lineup, the OM-5 promises yesterday's top-tier performance in a lighter, more compact body. enlarge. Generally, prime lenses have a reputation for being slightly sharper, and I have found that to be true whether I am shooting a nebula or a Scarlet Tanager. Another article that I read only the headline and saw a couple of samples then jumped directly to comments. There was no reason to test any other because, when stopped down to 49mm, F6.1, this lens is simply perfect, comparable to any APO on the market. On the 135/2 all you've got is the bare metal. Available in other Styles, Configurations & Kits. Don't know what the young man uses as his camera, and if he has tried to keep the noise under control, or even tried to focus on the eyes of the mallard, or the cat (their eyes are not truly in focus). Most small refracting telescopes start in the 300 to 400 mm focal length range, and even these are classed as widefield telescopes. The 135mm f2.8 in particular can take amazing photos of the brighter deep sky objects with about 1 second time . When i just judge by the indicator line as i click through, it seems like its 19 that gets skipped wondering if there is anything more definite? Im currently shooting with a Canon 60D. As it is it is earns a 9. It is fantastically sharp, can make beautiful blurred backgrounds and bokeh, and is both light and inexpensive for what you get. Bokeh == Visual character of the lens optics to render light and color mixing together. Definitely now on my to-buy list. Yuri toropin tests a bunch of lenses on Flickr which is a great source. Some real life images from my photoblog: http://hellabella.de, One of the best and sharpest lens around. Digital sensors are roughly 5 times as sharp as 400-speed film. You may need to refocus your subject as the temperature changes throughout the night. However, I find the process tedious, and prefer single, manually guided, long exposures which seem to have deeper colors. (cont. But she might as well be in front of a green screen. Canon CR-N700 4K PTZ Camera with 15x Zoom. In this post, Ill explain why I think the Rokinon 135mm F/2 is the perfect addition to an arsenal of astrophotography lenses. Do you have a link to Yuri's photo stream? This is a fully manual lens, meaning that it does not have autofocus, and you must manually select the f-stop . Touching the telescope, even ever so slightly, will introduce vibrations which will ruin the photograph. At $900 US it a relative steal. For this reason, a combination of a good light pollution filter, and the use of flat calibration frames are recommended. And it's not the one problem from my L lenses very sad =(, My favourite lens, hands down. (purchased for $900), reviewed December 4th, 2006 All of them are extremely sharp and produce mouth-watering bokeh, and all of them are reasonably priced for what you get.". For posed portraiture, it's a very nice budget option.FWIW, I'm a corporate portrait and event pro. So whats so great about shooting at 135mm anyway? We revisit a classic DPReviewTV episode in which Chris Niccolls and Jordan Drake shoot a few rolls of Fujifilm's Acros 100 II, and a few frames on the X-T3 in Acros film simulation, to find out. Super sharp from f2. :). Several functions may not work. Already wide open this lens produce some high quality photos. The Japanese word "bokeh" can be translated into English as "blur". It also focuses really fast and accurate and is light. The few occasions I use a 135 FL usually are landscape shots (where I have no use for f2) and childrens playing (where I need zoom and fast af). My questions, for deep sky pics, should I get the 135mm lens or the RedCat 51 APO 250mm f/4.9 which you mentioned here as well? That is why when SLRs came along the 200mm became the big seller and the 135 was largely forgotten. And you can even crop a 135 efl with today's sensors should you actually need it. Theres no image stabilization on the Rokinon 135mm F/2 either, but thats a non-issue for amateur astrophotographers. No, Mr. don't get me wrong; this lens will take great photos, but the 'flatness' i was getting in my photos nearly had me give up 25 years of hobby photography. It's not a bad lens, probably a great one, even if it doesn't seems really as sharp as a basic 85mm f/1.8 (used at f/2.8) , but it's a bad idea to work wide open if you don't need to. It is worth of it's price?Any links to astrophotos with this lens?Thanks. I'll walk you through all this inc. OM System's latest lens is a whopper of a macro, featuring optical stabilization, full weather sealing, up to 2x magnification and a whole lot more. The 70-200L being a much more useful lens. Image quality, weight and value for money. $399 00. Did anybody use this lens for DSLR astrophoto? In between interviews with executives of the major companies, Dale Baskin took to the show floor to bring you this report. Yep the speed wars in the 70's that gave us all these bokeh monsters were all about the fact that its hard to get usable images in poor lighting when your film was stuck at iso 80 (or even 400 when you were pushing it). I think the readers would welcome contributions from other members' experiences. The interest of a f/1.4 is to be able to be perfect at f/2.8, while a f/1.8 or f/2 might need to be on f/4 to have the same sharpeness and overall IQ.They are not meant to be used wide open, except in rare moments. IS is useful in my f/4 zooms but I don't need it to hand-hold this lens. What I see is a photographer who should maybe instead stick to the kit lens, and learn composition first. Because of chromatic aberration, no telephoto lens can be used at full aperture. Best lens for portraiture I've ever tried. From the moment I reviewed the first sub-exposure on the display screen of my camera, I feel in love with the mid-range magnification of a 135mm lens. When stopped down to 37mm, F5.4, it is almost identical to the Takumar except that on highly enlarged images it shows a hint of coma in the distant corners. Were those taken with the Canon telephotos you spoke of, and the full spectrum modified camera and the clip in filter? This looks to be an excellent lens with fantastic results. When i check a F stop chart, i see 15 stops if i count the main, and the secondary ones: 2, 2.4, 2.8, 3.3, 4, 4.8, 5.6, 6.7, 8, 9.5, 11, 13, 16, 19, 22. This seems to be the norm for telephotos. Samyang should definitely make 135 f2 with the same optical formula and AF for Sony EFF and also Nikon F plus Canon EF mount if possible. You can't really ask them to stand still while you move around. From my experience, the toughest test on a lense is its ability to function wide open. This makes me feel I shall take the Zeiss 85F1.8 off my A6000 or maybe NOT, it's just another hype article about "A" lens. I have the Canon EF 135mm, f2L USM.
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